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Come On, Spring!
Whether or not you celebrate it, Easter always seems to bring with it
springtime or at least the enhanced anticipation thereof. Here are some new arrivals, perfect for Easter dinner, or to simply
toast the change of season.
2007 Fontsaine Gris de Gris, Corbieres, France,
$15
Gris de Gris . . . aka . . . ROSÉ! Do the capital letters get across
our excitement? If not, let us tell you: we are rosé fiends. Year in and year out, the Fontsainte, from Corbieres in Southwest France, is
one of our favorites. Very dry, very delicate; there is fruit (strawberries, raspberries and watermelon), but those flavors seem like whispers
atop a pure, refreshing minerality. Unlike many roses which fade quickly once gulped, this one seems to intensify on the finish, showing richer notes
of strawberry in particular. As it comes closer to room temperature, the body becomes rounder and richer, so you may not want to drink this
one too cold. A wonderful idea for an Easter aperitif.
2006 Borsao Rosé, Campo de Borja, Spain, $9
The beautiful, deep cherry-juice red of this wine is the first indication that this is a fuller
style of rose. On the palate, it's a winning combonation of juicy ripe strawberries and peppery notes. Ahhhhh. So refreshing.
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2006 Wimmer Czerny "Fumberg" Gruner Veltliner, Wagram, Austria, $18
Many have asked about the Nigl Gruner Veltliner we recommended in the Food & Wine article;
unfortunately, we have run out and it may be a little while before we see more of it. The good news is that we have an exciting new Gruner
to recommend! The first thing in our tasting notes for this wine: "Wow." While the fruits we detected sound really
tropical, honeyed melon, banana, a touch of coconut, they're all incredibly well-integrated and become a whole that's something else altogether.
A gorgeously rich texture with subtle acidity. Mineral, a clovey spice and orchard fruit notes become more and more pronounced, and linger on the
finish. The winery is intensely Organic & Biodynamic.
2007 Santa Julia Torrontes, Mendoza, Argentina, $10
We've rarely, if ever, seen the torrontes grape come from anywhere other than Argentina. The flavor
is as exclusive to Torrontes as Torrontes is to Argentina: imagine a merging of the key flavors of a Sauvignon Blanc and a Viognier. Lots of
tangerine and orange pith, lemon, lime and general zestiness, supported by a sexy texture and lovely floral aromatics. It's a delicious combination.
Organic.
2006 Peter Jakob Kuhn "Quarzit" Riesling, Rheingau,
Germany, $25
It was in the Rheingau that Riesling's potential was first realized and
developed. Peter and Angela Kühn, at their organically farmed 15-hectare estate outside of Oestreich, honor this tradition with finely honed
Riesling of the first order. The Quarzit, essentially spätlese level ripeness fermented to full dryness, is exceptionally
concentrated and focused with a deep mineral background. Organic.
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Springtime in . . . Roma
Some excellent new Italian reds that are wonderful Easter dinner / porch
drinking candidates:
2005 Poggio della Fonte,Tuscany, Italy, $15
Made by Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona, an extremely important name in the
history of Tuscany and of Siena. This is their basic "super tuscan" style blend (Sangiovese, Cab Sauv and Merlot), and it incorporates many of the
qualities that make their Brunellos so sought-after. The nose shows sundried cherry and loads of iron-driven minerality. The palate is tangy and
refreshing, with a good amount of acidity that's well-integrated amongst lively fruit. The medium-light body is dusty, with substantial grip.
Mouthwatering! Organic.
2004 Albino Rocca "Rosso di Rocca", Piedmont, Italy,
$20
This wine is kind of like a loft. Smaller and more modern than a
house, which in this analogy would be Rocca's 100% Nebbiolo from the exclusive Barbaresco appellation, maybe built in a refurbished warehouse
(retains a bit of rusticity) using both older (37 year old Nebbiolo and Cab Franc vines) and newer, fresher (10 year old Barbera vines) materials. A
great introduction to the refined, perfumed, vibrant style of Piemonte, with abundant black cherry, red raspberry, tar and roses.
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco, Italy,
$38
While Barolo usually gets the greater share of the Piedmont
limelight, its next door neighbor, Barbaresco, also produces beautiful, age-worthy Nebbiolos. The Cantina dei Produttori del Barbaresco is one
of Italy’s oldest and best cooperations. With over 50 members and more than 200 acres of vines, they offer
genuine, traditionally-styled Barbaresco at a price that is not often seen at this level. The 2004 is very pretty, with spiced,
floral aromas that are delicately woven into a fabric of ripe fruit. With air, herbal and balsamic overtones emerge, adding further complexity. The
wine offers outstanding length, silky tannins and a fresh, inviting finish. 90 points - Wine Advocate
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Rome Wine Dinner at City House
A word from City House chef/owner Tandy Wilson:
"Anne and I are very excited about the upcoming Rome Wine Dinner.
Not only is Rome one of our favorite cities in the world to dine in, it also inspires thought and creativity through its storied past. Some of
my favorite flavors in the kitchen, and those often highlighted in Roman cuisine are capers, anchovies, salts, vinegars. The heart of the Roman
table is antipasti; only in the capital city do you see such a mix of flavors from all over the country. We very much look forward to
recreating
some of our experiences in Rome for you."
Roman Wine
Dinner Monday, April 7
6:30pm
$69
Averna Cocktail
Antipasti Table (These items may change due to seasonal availability)
Baked Ricotta, Squash
Blossoms, Mint Mushrooms Sott' Olio (mushrooms packed in olive oil) Celery Heart and Bottarga Salad Caper, Raisin, Pinenut
Crostini Puntarelle Alici (chickory with an anchovy dressing) Herb Frittata Cipollini Sott' Aceto (pickled onions)
Antinori Campogrande Orvieto Classico
Primi
Rigatoni Carbonara (pasta, house cured
guanciale, pecorino, egg) Bucatini Aglio e Olio (pasta with garlic and olive oil) Trippa alla Romana (tomato braised tripe)
Falesco Est!Est!!Est!!!
Fratelli Pardi Rosso di Montefalco
Secondo
Roasted Lamb, Artichokes, Potatoes, Lemon, Mint
Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi
Dolce
Toasted Brioche, Baked Ricotta, Rhubarb Jam
Santo Stefano Moscato d'Asti
See you there! Call City House to reserve your place (615-736-5838)
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