"An agreeable alcoholic excitant"

 

Thus was the Mint Julep summed up by Robley Dunglison in his Medical Lexicon of 1851. While people today rarely order this drink outside the context of horse races (in particular the Kentucky Derby, which is this Saturday), it is truly a classic American (and particularly Southern) cocktail with a multi-faceted history. It originated in the Middle East ("Julap" means "a sweetened draught" in Persian), where alcohol was mixed with sugar and rose. Mint was substituted by Mediterranean cultures, and was carried over to the colonies. The Mint Julep is now made almost exclusively with bourbon, but in the mid-1800s recipes called for everything from claret, brandy or rum to "very old" sherry. While of course Derby day requires Kentucky Bourbon, the door is open for experimentation! There is a debate as to the treatment of the mint: traditionalists hold that the mint must not be bruised; it should either simply grace the top of the mixture unadulterated (like "a coquetish forest," as Howard Paul wrote in 1853), or for a mintier taste, soak several sprigs of mint in your bourbon overnight, or infuse your simple syrup with mint (our preference).

 

Trends in cocktails seem to be erring more towards the classics (such as the Rye Manhattan), and we think the Julep's due for a comeback, especially if it can capitalize on the popularity of minty drinks like the Mojito. In the balmy heat of late spring and summer, we find it much more than simply "agreeable!"

 

Maker's Mark has become the standard bourbon of choice for Juleps, but we have a great selection of Kentucky bourbons to choose from, and encourage you to try something new! Four Roses is a tasty (and more cost-effective) option, and a rye whiskey like Mitchers or Sazerac will add some spice to the sweetness. If you want to tipple in style, go for Blanton's, with its beautiful orb-like bottle capped by a racehorse (each bottle's top is one of a set of horses that make up a race when combined: collect 'em all!)

 

Mint Julep

 

1 ounce Mint Simple Syrup

2 ounces Bourbon

Several mint sprigs

 

 

For the simple syrup: combine 1 cup water and 1 cup sugar in a medium saucepan over high heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture reaches a full boil. Remove from heat and add 1/2 bunch mint, and steep for 15 minutes. Strain and chill. Makes about 14 ounces.

 

Pour the syrup and bourbon into an old-fashioned glass and stir. Almost fill the glass with crushed ice. Pack the mint leaves on top of the ice. Use a short straw so that when drinking, the nose is brought closer to all the fresh mint.

 

 

 

Not-So-Desert Island Wines

 

 

Should you ever be stranded on a desert island (and we most sincerely hope that you never are), you will probably wish that you hadn't answered "First growth Bordeaux" when asked "Were you to ever be stranded on a desert island, which wines would you take?" 

 

A smarter answer might be wines themselves from islands, in particular from Italy's Sardegna and Sicily (though they are not so desert: both have thriving local cuisines and tourism). Made to go with seafood and tropical fare, they're also quite refreshing and thirst-quenching. For years both islands produced largely what might be generously called bulk wine, but with the wave of modernization that hit the Italian wine industry in the 90s, as well as a greater export market, excellent world-class wineries have sprung up in both regions. Here are two exemplary offerings perfect for spring.

 

Sella & Mosca "La Cala" Vermentino (Sardegna) - We've featured other vermentinos before, and it's a grape that we will continue urging you to try. Sella & Mosca is one of the largest wine estates in Europe, yet their wines don't taste mass-produced at all. Fresh and fragrant, dry yet showing ample fruit notes, it's versatile and very very delicious. On Sale for $12 (normally $14) 

 

Cusumano Rosato (Sicily) - The latest addition to our growing trove of rose is also our new favorite. It's made with the rarely-seen nerello mascalese grape, and encompasses every characteristic we love about roses: there's that cleansing minerality, that balanced acidity, that almost luscious texture. Bright notes of strawberries, cherries and raspberry are tinged with hints of what gives this wine away as being tropical in origin: pithy orange and citrus notes. And is that passion fruit on the finish? Maybe we're getting carried away by thoughts of shimmering turquoise sea, but that's the power of an excellent wine such as this. $15 

 

Other excellent wines in stock from Sicily & Sardegna:

 

- Mirabile Nero d'Avola (Sicily) $16

 

- Colosi Nero d'Avola (Sicily) $13  Nero d'Avola is the signature red grape of Sicily, and it's quite intriguing: full of deep dark fruit and exotic spice. Often compared to Syrah.

 

- Planeta "La Segreta" (Sicily) $16 A blend of Nero d'Avola, Syrah and Merlot; bright and intense with dried herb and sappy red cherry.

 

- Sella & Mosca Cannonau (Sardegna) $14  Cannonau is the local name for Grenache. A light and somewhat spicy wine that is a great Pinot Noir alternative.

 

- Argiolas "Costamolino" Vermentino (Sardegna) $15 A creamier iteration of Vermentino than the Sella & Mosca with tropical fruit; held together by zesty acidity.

 

 

 

 

A Rioja for $10? Aye Carumba!

 

2005 Gran Familia Rioja - $10

 

Rioja is Spain's most famous region, known for its red wines made from the Tempranillo grape. The pricey versions are often aged in barrel for years - much longer than most American wines. The Gran Familia maintains its value in part by forgoing this somewhat costly process (barrels can be expensive; additionally, the winery loses profits while the wines simply sit in their cellar and age). However, in our opinion, it really hasn't forfeited anything: it's simply Rioja expressed at its most pure and youthful. Tanginess reigns supreme in a palate that's full of earthy red fruit notes.  There's a bit of a meaty quality, and lots of minerality. It feels authentic, and it tastes good. Those are qualities we'd happily pay much more than $10 for.

 

 

 

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Don't forget: Mother's Day is next Sunday! We offer complimentary gift wrapping, and would love to help you pick out something Mom will love.