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In Two's
Two Beautiful New Spanish Wines With Ugly Labels
Pucho Mencia (Bierzo; $15). While this is a label that we
can't imagine grabbing anyone's attention, sometimes an ugly label carries an odd reassurance that the winery is more concerned with making wine than
hiring a PR/marketing firm. They're old school, and this wine reflects an authenticity many wines with flashy labels lack. Mencia is one of our new
favorite grapes from Spain, and it is produced almost exclusively in the Northwestern region of Bierzo. An intriguing blend of bright fruit (think
grape jolly ranchers, but not sweet!) with subtle earthy barnyard notes. Lots of finesse, well-balanced, and very elegant, leading one to think it
much more expensive than it is.
Amestoi Txakolina ($18). A funky label that is the equivalent to a
freakshow face only a mother could love. Bizaare from the name of the winery to the name of the grapes (Hondurribi Zuri & Beltza) to the name of
the region (Getariako Txakolina ("Chock-o-leena")located in Spain's Northern Basque country). The white wine inside, however, is our new favorite for
spring. The official beverage of Basque tapas bars, it's the epitome of "mouth-watering;" you almost have to swallow twice. Tiny bubbles (similar to
Vinho Verde), with lots of mineral, citrus, and a delicious herby grassiness that sneaks up mid-palate. Gains tropical fruit notes of papaya and
mango as it warms, as well as a fuller mouthfeel. Really unique and awesome. Waiters in Spain traditionally pour it from shoulder level; however, we
don't recommend trying this at home.
Two Killer Whites from Jean-Marc Brocard
2006 Kimmeridgian Chardonnay ($22) - The slogan of Jean-Marc Brocard
pretty much sums up this wine: "My wine gets its aroma from the earth." Basically, the guy is a terroir nut! This wine reflects the unique
Kimmeridgien limestone soil of Burgundy (filled with dense chalk and marine fossils). Minerality prevails in the wine, but the body is surprisingly
Rubenesque and rich. It's a happy marriage, and we love this wine with oysters.
2005 Domaine Saint Claire Sauvignon Blanc ($17) - More well-known for producing stunning Chardonnay in
Chablis, Jean-Marc Brocard's lesser-known Sauvignon Blancs from Saint-Bris are just as notable, perhaps even moreso for the varietal's rarity in
Burgundy. Chablis has a chalky, fossil-filled limestone soil that is very rare, and the only other place in France that has anything similar
is…Sancerre (the Sauvignon Blanc lover's mecca)! So really, Sauvignon Blanc is a natural here. Minerally, lively, bright and vivacious with
rich citrus notes.
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Two New Wines from Rosenthal
Imports
You might not be able to judge a book by its cover, but with some
wine, the back label can tell a lot, even when it appears to say nothing. We're referring to the seal of the importer. There are some that have
such great track records, and are so consistent in the styles they import, that you can't go wrong. Kermit Lynch is the most famous. Neal Rosenthal
is lesser known, but shares many of Kermit's standards: terroir-driven wines from small producers.
2004 Charles Koehly Saint-Hippolyte Riesling (Alsace, France; $18)
Alsace is France's premier region for Riesling; makes sense, as it's right across a river from
Germany. However, the beautiful, dry Rieslings they make are often overlooked in the greater scheme of Rieslings - a mistake for sure, as this
wine demonstrates: lean, bright and vibrant, with a nice balance of fruit and minerality.
2004 Domaine la Marnarine Cotes du Rhone (France;
$13)
This lovely basic Rhone is elegant, traditional in style, with herb,
cocoa, red cherry and sandalwood notes that are tender and supple through the pretty, lingering finish.
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Two Organic Reds That Remind Us of the Northern Rhone
2006 Jean Bousquet Reserve Malbec (Tupungatu, Argentina; $20)
A lot of times, wines labeled "reserve" hardly merit the distinction, but
this one really does. First of all, it's sourced from vineyards at 1200 meters - that's about as high as grapes can grow. Secondly, the taste is
truly at a higher level: gorgeous texture and well-structured, with complex, terroir-driven notes of mushroom, meat (proscuitto), balsamic, leather
and white pepper complementing bright purple fruit. Tastes twice as expensive as it is. Organic
2006 Tensley Syrah - Three Creek Vineyard (Santa
Barbara, California; $38)
White pepper, bacon, olives scream "Northern Rhone Syrah." It carries its
considerable amount of fruit with grace. The most elegant Californian wine we've tasted recently. As with most wines of exceptional personality and
finesse, it comes from a family winery, and only 241 cases were made. Organic
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Steal of the
Week
Bouchard Aine & Fils Pinot Noir (Bourgogne,
France)
Was $15; SALE $10
Established in 1750, Bouchard has only seen a handful of vintages as good
as 2005. The Bouchard family's least expensive effort is a diamond in the rough as far as inexpensive Pinot Noir (which may actually be an oxymoronic
phrase at this point) is concerned. In a time when rising Pinot Noir prices often coincide with declining quality, Bouchard maintains their
dignity by offering a quality product at a decent price. As to the taste: nice tart cherries and cranberries are accented with depth-embuing earthy
notes. A silky texture and a little tannic grip on the finish complete the package. An amazing deal (while it lasts!).
Remember: We still have
our current 6 for $60 available! A $70 value, it includes Woolundry Road Cabernet from Australia, Cycles Gladiator Syrah from
California, Boxhead Shiraz/Cab from Australia, Altos del Cuadrado Mourvedre from Spain, Cellar No. 8 Zinfandel from California, and Les
Garrigues Cotes du Rhone from France. The easiest way to restock your weeknight wine supply!
Upcoming Events
April 7 City House Roman Dinner
Featuring traditional Roman cuisine (including an antipasti bar!) and wines from all over Italy.
$69 per person
RSVP by calling 615 736 5838
April 16 Spring Bistro Dinner @ Marché
Fresh seafood with a Mediterranean feel, and wines perfect for spring; almost sold
out!
$40 per person
RSVP by calling 615 262 1111
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