In the 1980s, a vine pull was
initiated in Argentina. Malbec, a varietal brought to that country from France in the 1860s, seemed a waste of vineyard space. 80% of the
Malbec vines in Argentina were pulled.
This just goes to show how subject the wine world is to the ebb and flow
of trends. It could be argued that Malbec has made Argentina's reputation in the wine world. Last year, the largest growth in any wine sector was in
South American wines — yes, even topping Pinot Noir, the former queen bee. We've seen the trend echoed in the amount of interest you,
our customers, have shown in exploring Argentinian and Chilean wines, and in particular the Malbec grape. This is a trend we welcome, as Argentinian
Malbecs are really fantastic wines that seem to embody the best of both wine worlds: New World abundance of fruit, with Old World earthy elements
often embodied in savory notes such as coffee and an elegant structure. Malbec was initially, and still is, used as a blending grape in
Bordeaux, to beef up and darken the color of the Cab/Merlot/Cab Franc blends there. It is the main grape in Southwest France's Cahors region, where
it's often a much more rustic, brambly and tannic rendition than Argentina's. But it has really proved to shine the brightest in its adapted,
mountainous South American home.
Popularity has its downfalls; prices rise, imitators lessen the grape's
reputation with cheap knockoffs, it becomes overplanted, and so on. Malbec has not yet peaked, and we can still find some amazing values, several of
which we have put on sale this week. So, enjoy the Malbec love festival, but let's all hope that in a random vineyard somewhere, a wonderful,
now-obscure grape isn't sacrificing its vineyard space to make way for the current king.
Lancatay Malbec Mendoza, Argentina
was $12; SALE $10
A new winery founded by Italian winemakers, demonstrating the influx of
Europeans eager to experiment with the unique terroir of Mendoza. The Lancatay seems a perfect marriage of a peculiarly Italian restraint (imagine
the pinpoint lightness of a fine Nebbiolo) with lush, dark mountain fruit. A beautiful, highly perfumed nose with elegant black cherry and bright
raspberry on the palate.
Crios Malbec Mendoza, Argentina
was $15; SALE $13
Female winemakers are still by far the minority, but pioneers like Susan
Balbo are opening doors for women who want to make their career in the vineyards or the cellar, though women in traditionally male roles don't seem
to concern the Argentinians as much as they do us: check out their president!. But getting to the wine… it's one of the most interesting and expressive malbecs we've had at this
price point. The nose is the very essence of one of critic Rober Parker's favorite descriptors: "Spice Box." Star anise, clove, nutmeg and more jump
out of the glass. Robust fruit— plum, blackberry, raspberry— is encased in a very smooth, finessed body, with lovely hints of
violet. Toasty and quite comforting.
Extra credit: We also carry Crios Cabernet
Sauvignon, Rosé of Malbec, and
Torrontes, the flagship Argentine white wine, a unique melding of citrus, slightly bitter orange, generous body and ripe stone
fruit. Imagine a melding of Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. Delicious.
Other Malbecs to Explore:
Jean Bousquet $13
Inky and extracted plus it's organic.
Altos los Hormigas $13
Bright, with forward fruit.
Croix du Mayne Cahors $18
Malbec/merlot blend; try France's earthier iteration of the grape!
Achaval Ferrer $26
Our favorite! Evolved magically over the course of several hours. Complex,
luscious; Tyler said it best: "It's like 'I just lit this cigar then put it out on this cured ham, try this juicy raspber- oh I'm sorry, I dropped it
on the 200 year old wood floor of my cabana pool house. Just take another bite of my fresh Argentine steaks cooked medium rare by a sweaty, scantily
clad pool lady— or boy your preference— and thanks again for coming." Really, it's just like that.
